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Installing shock cord deck rigging on your skin on frame kayak
    Things you need:

  • Hot Knife or soldering gun

  • 9/64" & 15/64" drill bits

  • About 5 yards of Shock Cord (3/16)

  • 1/4" Doweling or hardwood square stock or bamboo

  • Hammer, Knife, needle nose pliers

  • Small piece of stove pipe wire or Guitar String or thin zip tie





Typical deck line layout includes:


  • Two lines on the front deck immediately in front of the cockpit.

  • Two lines on the back deck immediately behind the cockpit.

  • Two rescue loops (for self-rescues), also behind the cockpit.

  • One line on the far aft deck (for attaching longer objects on the back deck such as a spare break-down paddle).


Other options for lines include a third line on the front deck in front of the cockpit, or a line far up on the front    deck to be used for stowing a paddle temporarily. Of course, deck line placement is ultimately up to personal preference, and any number of permutations are possible. Below are some considerations in the placement and drilling of the lines.


  • Avoid placing bungee holes over deck beams, deck beam lashings, or foot rails, as you will either damage the structure of the boat or will be unable to feed the bungee through the hole.

  • The lines nearest the cockpit, both fore and aft, should be given a little space so that they don't fall into the gap between the cockpit and the deck stringer.

  • Rescue loop holes should be spaced about 8" apart and be placed close behind the cockpit.

  • The two deck lines behind the cockpit should be spaced at least 10" apart -- this will provide better holding for objects placed on the back deck than lines spaced close.

  • Use ribs or deck beams as reference points to transfer marks to the opposite side of the boat, and use a string or line to check that the marks align. 

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