finishing touches

 
 

Cockpit lip and decklines

This page is designed specifically to assist our workshop students in putting the final touches on their boats, but it may also prove useful to folks who are building boats on their own. Please contact us if there are any steps in the process that are unclear.

 

deck rigging

Cockpit Combing Lip

Purchasing the Rope

Although a variety of both natural and synthetic cordage will work, we typically use a 5/8" 3-strand nylon rope that can be purchased at most marine hardware stores (usually available in either white or black). A smaller diameter rope than 5/8" will not provide an adequate grip for your skirt in rough conditions, while a larger one becomes unwieldy. We use a 3 strand instead of a kern-mantle rope (one with a woven sheath over a multistrand core) because it tends to be stiffer and less likely to deform when sewn. Synthetic rope (such as nylon) can be welded to join the ends, while natural cordage will have to be spliced. 7' of rope should be adequate, but measure around your cockpit and add a little extra.

Making the Weld

Wrap a two inch section at one end of the rope with tape to prevent the strands from fraying (duct or masking tape). Make a diagonal cut parallel to the twist of the strands. This cut should be made with either an electric hot knife or nylon rope cutter, or can be made with a disposable butter knife that has been heated with a blow torch or other heat source.

BE SURE THAT THE END OF THE KNIFE YOU ARE HOLDING IS INSULATED SO AS NOT TO BURN YOURSELF.

Stretch the rope lightly around the cockpit, mark where the cut end meets the other end of the rope, and tape this section. Mark where the original end overlaps the newly taped section, then make another diagonal cut at this mark. Position the two ends so they align with each other, then use the hot knife to melt both ends of the cut simultaneously. Remove the knife quickly and immediately press the two ends together firmly, holding them there for approximately 10 seconds. The weld should be quite strong in tension, though it is brittle and will break if twisted or if a needle is pushed through it. Check the weld for strength; if it comes apart easily, repeat the final step to reweld it. Once you have a solid weld, remove the tape. Kern-mantle ropes should be butt-welded (i.e., cut straight across i




Deck Line Bungees

Deck Line Placement

Typical deck line layout includes:

•Two lines on the front deck immediately in front of the cockpit.

•Two lines on the back deck immediately behind the cockpit.

•Two rescue loops (for self-rescues), also behind the cockpit.

•One line on the far aft deck (for attaching longer objects on the back deck such as a spare break-down paddle).

          Other options for lines include a third line on the front deck in front of the cockpit, or a line far up on the front    deck to be used for stowing a paddle temporarily. Of course, deck line placement is ultimately up to personal preference, and any number of permutations are possible. Below are some considerations in the placement and drilling of the lines.

•Avoid placing bungee holes over deck beams, deck beam lashings, or foot rails, as you will either damage the structure of the boat or will be unable to feed the bungee through the hole.

•The lines nearest the cockpit, both fore and aft, should be given a little space so that they don't fall into the gap between the cockpit and the deck stringer.

•Rescue loop holes should be spaced about 8" apart and be placed close behind the cockpit.

•The two deck lines behind the cockpit should be spaced at least 10" apart -- this will provide better holding for objects placed on the back deck than lines spaced close.

•Use ribs or deck beams as reference points to transfer marks to the opposite side of the boat, and use a string or line to check that the marks align.

nstead of on a diagonal).

Sewing the Rope

Measure three arm spans of thread, double it on a straight needle, and make a small knot with both ends. This will probably not be enough to make it all the way around, but it is easier to use several short sections than have a long section that will tangle. Stretch the welded rope around the cockpit, and start sewing through the back of the rope near one of the sewing holes, so that the knot will be hidden between the rope and the cockpit. Move the needle over about an 1/8", then push it back through the rope and the hole in the cockpit, pulling the thread tight. Move to the next sewing hole in the cockpit and push the needle through the hole and the rope (which should be centered vertically on the sewing hole). Moving over an 1/8" again, push the needle back through the rope and the same hole in the cockpit, and pull tight. Continue working around the cockpit in this manner, grabbing a bite of rope with the thread at each hole. To end the thread, simply make another knot behind the rope as with the initial knot, and start new pieces in the same fashion as the initial piece. Pulling the thread tight on each stitch is very important in assuring that your cockpit lip is firmly affixed and not loose.